|
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10
31
« Last post by Feohw on May 01, 2020, 09:23:12 am »
On my 53g I use the JBL CristalProfi e1502 greenline canister filter. One of the better filters I've had. Works great, much easier to open and clean than my old eheim canister (which was also really great).
On my 6 gallon I have the aquaclear 20 HOB filter. Works fine too, easy to clean and does its job. The issue I have is with the tank (Fluval edge) rather than the filter. Terrible tank.
During the rare times I set up a hospital tank I just use an amazon sponge filter with two media chambers for ceramic media on it. Works fine as any sponge filter would.
I never liked the internal filters I've used. My old fluval u2 was a pain in the neck. For me they go canister > HOB/sponge > internal. I have yet to try out a sump, but one day I will.
32
Hey guys!
Just wondering what kind of filter you guys use and how it’s working for you.
I personally use Tetra internal filters. They are really easy to disassemble and clean. (I use these in my 29g and my 5g)
In my 10g betta tank, I have an API micro filter. It’s working super well right now.
33
« Last post by PheonixKingZ on April 30, 2020, 09:14:16 pm »
Cheesecake & Fish
So what’s it gonna be guys? I really like either “The Fish Block” or “Fish Keeping nerds”. What do you guys think?
34
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis is or Ich for short is a parasite that is common in aquarium fish. Typically fish with ich will look like they have been dusted with with salt, small white nodules will cover their body. Ich is extremely common and I will be outlining some easy and effective treatment methods.
Heat: Ich cannot stand the heat. One of the most effective methods is to raise the temperature slowly up to 88F for a short period of time. The ich will perish within a few days. This treatment only works if it is done over a few days. Be warned there are heat resistant strains of ich out there.
Starving the Fish: Ich feeds off the fishes nutrients. Therefore if you deny the fish food the ich will soon die. I have done this several times and within a few days the ich was gone. However some disagree that this method is effective
Large water changes: Ich frequently occurs in tanks that are dirty and unkempt. Large water changes and proper water parameters can help to prevent ich from infesting a tank.
Medications: There are various medications for ich I used API ich cure and it worked well however it was rather pricey. When treating bettas with ich do not use bettafix or melafix because it contains tea tree oil and it will coat their labyrinth organ and suffocate them. Anything with machalite green or is copper based should do the trick for killing ich.
My methods/how I treat ich: I rarely run into ich. My tanks are well kept and clean however when I do I usually use the heat/starvation method. It usually clears up within a few days to a week. I combine this with large water changes.
Causes: Ich is caused by stress, poor water conditions, wrong temperature and over crowding. Proper water conditions, correct temperature, and proper stocking can help to prevent ich. Large water changes also are good.
35
« Last post by KingJamal2 on April 30, 2020, 04:40:48 pm »
Common Name: Dwarf Sag, Dwarf Sagittaria, Narrowleaf Arrowhead Latin Name: Sagittaria subulata Family: Alismataceae Plant Form: long leaves extending from roots Sold As: mature plant with fully formed leaves and roots Placement: foreground to background, depending on what height you let it grow to Max Size: 12 inches Plant Location: native to parts of the U.S and Colombia Flowers: if allowed to grow, little white flowers will appear on long stems reaching the top of the water Propagation: plant will produce “runners” with baby plants growing at the end of the runner. Runners can be cut and plants can be separated. Growth Rate: fast True Aquatic: yes pH: 6.5-7.5 is recommended, but the plant can thrive in a wide range Supplements: root tabs are appreciated. Liquid fertilizers can help, but root fertilizers are better Lighting: medium Care Level: easy Good for Beginners: yes Dwarf sag is a very easy and undemanding plant, making it great for beginners. A very nice grass-like carpet can be formed at the bottom of the tank, as this plant spreads very easily. If you want a shorter plant, just cut the leaves, and if you want a taller plant, let the leaves grow. Root tabs are recommended, as they will boost growth and cause a more vibrant green color in the plant. One plant can create a very nice carpet in a couple of months if kept in optimal conditions. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] ( https://www.aquariumplantsfactory.com/products/dwarf-sagittaria-subulata)
36
« Last post by PheonixKingZ on April 30, 2020, 07:40:58 am »
Ok, thank you for accepting my apologies...
Keep us updated on his condition.
37
« Last post by NBettas833 on April 30, 2020, 12:29:25 am »
Cheesecake & Fish
38
« Last post by NBettas833 on April 30, 2020, 12:26:59 am »
I’m sorry, I really didn’t mean for it to come out like that...
I was just saying IME, medication is pretty pointless for treating fin rot. Please accept my apologies... 🙁
I understand what you meant, I do agree that it is best to go with PWCs first. I totally agree with you, I had just decided to move to medication as PWCs haven't been working.
39
« Last post by PheonixKingZ on April 29, 2020, 08:35:19 pm »
I’m sorry, I really didn’t mean for it to come out like that...
I was just saying IME, medication is pretty pointless for treating fin rot. Please accept my apologies... 🙁
40
« Last post by PheonixKingZ on April 29, 2020, 08:34:18 pm »
Did you use the choose files button? After you click that, then you need to select how you want it to appear. (Thumbnail, full image, etc.)
Got it to work. I’m sorry, I really didn’t mean for it to come out like that...
I was just saying IME, medication is pretty pointless for treating fin rot. Please accept my apologies... 🙁 If you want me to specify any tank details I can, I just did not because I already went through that process on FL
I suggest doing what I recommend above. It really is the best way to do it.
Maybe not. If the fin rot is bacterial like from columnaris, API powder stuff(IDR what it’s called) and methelayne blue together work great. The seachem paragaurd is also good.
Also @PheonixKing, saying that your way ‘is the best way’ is a bit unnecessary. The OP got you opinion and analyzed it. Please be respectful to the members. You are now a global moderator.
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10
|
New name?
by NBettas833
May 16, 2020, 01:41:10 am
|
White Cloud Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes)
by KingJamal2
May 12, 2020, 05:33:15 pm
|
Please post profiles in correct child board!
by PheonixKingZ
May 12, 2020, 11:07:12 am
|
Jungle Val (Vallisneria americana ‘Gigantea’)
by KingJamal2
May 11, 2020, 05:04:25 pm
|
Erythromycin Safe for Snails?
by PheonixKingZ
May 06, 2020, 08:55:53 am
|
Filter?
by PheonixKingZ
May 01, 2020, 11:14:18 am
|
How to treat ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
by The10thDoctor
April 30, 2020, 06:46:02 pm
|
Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata)
by KingJamal2
April 30, 2020, 04:40:48 pm
|
Suggestions for profile subforum
by PheonixKingZ
April 29, 2020, 08:31:58 pm
|
Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)
by KingJamal2
April 29, 2020, 07:17:34 pm
|
|
|